AP/AFP – Lagerfeld’s personal library of around 300,000 books, with its several librarians, featured prominently during a poignant memorial for him last month.
“It’s an illness, I’m not afraid to admit it,” he once said.
So, it was a touching gesture by Viard — his longtime head of studio — to keep his memory alive at the Chanel fall-winter couture show by creating a two-level library in the Grand Palais, bursting with tomes of classic French writers such as Baudelaire and Verlaine on wooden shelves, to display the designs.
Viard did not need a crutch to sell her couture, however.
In her first major calendar fashion show, she demonstrated a distinct artistic flair and vision that will take Chanel confidently into the future.
Models wore spectacles and preppy buttons, but the gimmicks gave way to a fluid and glimmering 70-look collection of gowns and signature skirt-suits.
“Chanel does not write with paper and ink… but with material, with forms and with colors,” said writer Roland Barthes, according to the program notes.
Elongated silhouettes and emphasized necks provided the form. Tweed, velvet, wool crepe mixed with lace and chiffon to provide the material. While, embroidered sequins and bursts of bright color on an otherwise powdery palette provided the hues.