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Gucci town beats Italy’s economic crisis with handbags

SCANDICCI, Italy (AFP) – In this crisis-busting corner of Italy’s industrial heartland, the local college found jobs for all of its graduates last year and the latest plant to open was relocated from Germany.

A short drive from the mediaeval palazzos of Florence, the town of Scandicci is booming while the rest of Italy endures a recession. Why? Handbags.

Local artisans in Scandicci’s non-descript warehouses craft luxury leather goods exported around the world by some of the biggest names in fashion.

People arrive on September 26, 2011, for the opening of the Gucci Museum at Palazzo della Mercanzia in Piazza della Signoria in Florence. A short drive from the mediaeval palazzos of Florence, the town of Scandicci is booming while the rest of Italy endures a recession. Why? Handbags. Local artisans in Scandicci’s non-descript warehouses craft luxury leather goods exported around the world by some of the biggest names in fashion. Gucci has a headquarters in Scandicci and Christian Dior and Chanel have set up plants here

People arrive on September 26, 2011, for the opening of the Gucci Museum at Palazzo della Mercanzia in Piazza della Signoria in Florence. A short drive from the mediaeval palazzos of Florence, the town of Scandicci is booming while the rest of Italy endures a recession. Why? Handbags. Local artisans in Scandicci’s non-descript warehouses craft luxury leather goods exported around the world by some of the biggest names in fashion. Gucci has a headquarters in Scandicci and Christian Dior and Chanel have set up plants here

Gucci has a headquarters in Scandicci and Christian Dior and Chanel have set up plants here.

The sector includes some 2,700 mostly small-scale manufacturers and employs around 20,000 people.

“Our directors are enlightened people. They asked themselves ‘Where is the best place to make leather? Scandicci? Okay, let’s move to Scandicci’,” said Giacomo Cortesi, director of a plant set up by luxury watches and accessories maker Montblanc.

Montblanc’s leather working facility opened in Scandicci last year after the company, which belongs to Swiss-based luxury holding Richemont, sold off its leather plant in Germany.

“We’re at the heart of the leather goods business and the network is right here! You can almost visit all our suppliers by bike,” said Cortesi.

“Basically, if you’re buying a handbag it’s from here.”

The facility brings together German technology and Italian craftsmanship, with an eye-opening array of machines to test the leather for every type of global climate, temperature, wear and discolouration.

There is even a robotic arm which repeatedly tests the resistance of shoulder straps on Montblanc bags loaded with 15 kilos (33 pounds) of weights.

The luxury company is taking its precautions against counterfeiting, which is rampant in Italy, and applies its logo only at the last stage of its own production or when it has already received the bags, wallets and belts from its suppliers.

The sector in Scandicci has grown so fast in recent years that it is struggling to find enough workers, meaning that students at a local college teaching techniques for handcrafted leather work are basically guaranteed a job when they graduate.

“There is a lot of demand abroad for our leather right now. This is really a source of pride for Italy,” said one student Francesco Gheri, who is hoping to set up his own business when he completes the course which is financed by local authorities.

The figures bear out the hyperbole – according to the most recent data leather exports from Scandicci were up 11.3 percentage points in the second quarter of 2012 from the same period a year earlier.

“The sector is in full expansion,” said Laura Chini, director of the Alta Scuola di Pelletteria (High School of Leather Working).

“A lot of the sector revolves around Gucci. Gucci has its roots here and everything developed in its wake,” Chini said.

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